[BMW5and7]

I purchased a low mileage pre-owned 8-series. When I got the car, I was handed a package of some accessories, manual, and the 2nd keyfob all of which seemed to be still in factory plastic wrap, never opened/used.

I opened the packet that had the 2nd key and manual. That key still looked new, never used yet, however I tried to use it with no luck. I stopped at the BMW dealership without an appoitment, they replaced key batteries and no luck either. They tried to scan it but said still it did not read and key appears to be new and not linked to any VIN or completely dead electronically.

They said it is possible that the key was never ever registered to the car when car arrived, or that the keyfob is just dead/broken since it was never touched for about 2-3 years. They scheduled me for an appoitment - said they need to keep for 2-3 hours to program the key layer this month or next, and if it the key is broken, they’ll just order a new one for me.

Anyone with similar experience?

[Justao]

Or the previous owner kept the 2nd key and the dealer who sold the car just added an empty key… how comw the 2nd key isnnot programmed?😅 how could it be used if it was never programmed in the first place

[BMW5and7]

Originally Posted by Justao

Or the previous owner kept the 2nd key and the dealer who sold the car just added an empty key… how comw the 2nd key isnnot programmed?😅 how could it be used if it was never programmed in the first place

That conclusion wasn’t final.. it was just based on a quick 5 min diagnosis by the service adviser. the key could be programed/registered already, but completely dead.. we still don’t know. The packet they gave me was abosutely for this car itself… It had the VIN and barcode matching other items came with the car. The keyfob clear was never ever used. When I picked up the car, it was not yet detailed by the dealer (so they haven’t even had time to get a 2nd key or do something - it was just recieved and passed to them by 1st owner. My salesman knows I was hunting for an Alpina and called me same day they got it in. I am 100% certain the dealer did not randomly throw in a new key there.

[Qsilver7]

Originally Posted by BMW5and7

I opened the packet that had the 2nd key and manual. That key still looked new, never used yet, however I tried to use it with no luck. I stopped at the BMW dealership without an appoitment, they replaced key batteries and no luck either. They tried to scan it but said still it did not read and key appears to be new and not linked to any VIN or completely dead electronically.

They said it is possible that the key was never ever registered to the car when car arrived…

The original remote fobs are programmed specifically (by VIN) to the car as it rolls off the assembly line.

In all the fussing over the remote when you took it to the dealer…did they hold the remote fob next to the Ring Aerial located in the steering column? There’s a little icon on the steering column where the aerial is located. Actually you don’t need the battery inside the remote to start the vehicle…STARTING uses induction. The ring aerial powers up the transponder inside the remote which then sends the encrypted 128-bit signal to the other modules (CAS/DME/BDC/etc) to start the car.

BTW, the battery inside the remote is used to send the signals required to lock/unlock the vehicle…but again, you should be able to start the vehicle with a dead remote by holding it next to the ring aerial in the steering column.

[BMW5and7]

Originally Posted by Qsilver7

The original remote fobs are programmed specifically (by VIN) to the car as it rolls off the assembly line.

In all the fussing over the remote when you took it to the dealer…did they hold the remote fob next to the Ring Aerial located in the steering column? There’s a little icon on the steering column where the aerial is located. Actually you don’t need the battery inside the remote to start the vehicle…STARTING uses induction. The ring aerial powers up the transponder inside the remote which then sends the encrypted 128-bit signal to the other modules (CAS/DME/BDC/etc) to start the car.

BTW, the battery inside the remote is used to send the signals required to lock/unlock the vehicle…but again, you should be able to start the vehicle with a dead remote by holding it next to the ring aerial in the steering column.

Am not sure if they tried, and I personally haven’t either. The only thing I recall they said is that they will fix the key next time I stop by, and if it’s completely broken/faulty for whatever reason, they will replace it under warranty. We discovered all that towards the end as I was leaving the dealership after I bought it. Neither of us wanted to stay longer as we already spend 6 hours there (negotating, signing papers, talking, and then I also asked them to do an annual service). By then we all just wanted to get our of each other’s face, so the key-fob thing took only 5 minutes towards the end and they didn’t have time to fix it, but confirmed that keyfob issue is beyond just a dead battery (could be competely broken/faulty or something else). I’ll get back to then in January after Christmas.

[Qsilver7]

Thanks for the additional info. Have you tried to pair the remote yourself? If not, it’s easy…simply remove the working remote far enough away from the vehicle so that it doesn’t communicate with it. Then take the 2nd remote and hold it next to the icon on the steering column (check your owners manual for the hold position….some BMWs your hold flat, some you hold the tip next to the icon)…then simply press the brake pedal and push the START button.

If the car starts, then the remote is paired…and the central locking features should now work if the battery inside the remote is working correctly.

You can see how BMW shows how to hold the remote fob can be different…which is why I suggested to check your owners manual to see how it’s done in your model.

[STi from DSM]

Sucks that it was found out right when you were about to leave the dealership and I totally feel for you that during the day you buy the car you usually just want to take the car and deal with any issues afterwards. I had a similar situation with my RS5 when I bought that back in April where the shocks had leaked out all of their magic fluid for the DRC causing very loud clunks over bumps. The issue was literally found when I was on my way to the dealership. It was a hassle and the car eventually had to be driven back to the dealership 5 hours away while they dropped off a 330ix for me to drive while they fixed it. I never had to really lift a finger for it. I was a bit hesitant to have someone that wasn't me driving the car for that amount of time, but I got over it when I found out that the new shocks were like $4k.