[M8Bimmer]

Originally Posted by jeezz

So since no one had a real answer to the original question, I am again bringing this thread back to life.


I did this full conversion from HK to BW, so yes it is possible.

I gathered all the parts over month from salvage cars etc.:

-7x B&W mid range speaker
-7x B&W tweeter
-2x B&W subwoofer
-1x B&W booster
-2x Front door side panel
-2x Back side panel
-1x Center console speaker cover

Speakers can be exchanged one by one, but the problem is, the H&K System uses crossover frequencys. So the tweeter is connected to the midrange speaker.

For B&W this is not how it works, it has seperate wiring from the booster in the trunk to every tweeter!

So I created a new wiring harness, and while doing so also added additional wires for the B&W lighting. Like already noted in this thread, a lot of interior has to come of for this. But that is not really a problem, you can take them all off in like 20-30 minutes.

Some maybe already wondered, why did he bought door panels.. they are cheaper then buying the B&W speaker covers from BMW and it's hard to find them as used part. So I bought some door panels that did not even macht my interior and were in bad condition but I just transfered the speaker covers to my door panels. It fits 1:1

So after installing all the wires the tweeters get connected to the RAM! and the mid range + subwoofers to the B&W booster. You can keep the H&K RAM, only the booster needs to be replaced.

Also B&W booster needs new power harness 10mm² from battery with a 50A fuse.

After everything is done the RAM needs flashing, because B&W has other software, it will not work without flashing.. After that you also have to code it.

Sure it's A LOT of work and it took me some days, but I see this as a hobby and do it for fun.

Wow! I bow to your persistence and determination. What a project .
Were you happy in the end with it. I can see you won't be stopped on something.

[TXSTYLE]

You would be much better off going aftermarket and come out much cheaper and utilize your current speaker covers with better speakers and amps.

[jeezz]

Originally Posted by M8Bimmer

Wow! I bow to your persistence and determination. What a project .
Were you happy in the end with it. I can see you won't be stopped on something.

Thank you. Yeah it came out great! In my opinion the H&K was a good system, but the sound quality of the B&W is way better...

Originally Posted by TXSTYLE

You would be much better off going aftermarket and come out much cheaper and utilize your current speaker covers with better speakers and amps.

But I don't want aftermarket

[TXSTYLE]

Originally Posted by jeezz

Thank you. Yeah it came out great! In my opinion the H&K was a good system, but the sound quality of the B&W is way better...



But I don't want aftermarket

Oh. Nevermind. GL to you.

[Moopai]

I don't mean to offend anyone here but honestly I don't understand the buzz behind B&W. I had B&W in my 7 series for four years and when I compare to the HK in the M850, I don't notice the great effect between the two to pay the extra $5k. I agree with the member's comment about B&O being a better system than B&W.

As I mentioned in previous post, the only thing I miss with the B&W is lights in the speakers! It created a really nice look at night when driving. The M850 look dark without the B&W speakers...

Originally Posted by Hockey 29

Thank you all for your insight. As soon as I read “they would have to tear the whole interior apart”, that was the deal breaker. I’m not going to have Service rip apart the car…and then try and figure out how to put it back together again. I will be buying a new 8 series soon, so I’ll make sure it has the B&W sound system.
I appreciate all your input and respect for my wallet as well as future headaches.

[TXSTYLE]

Originally Posted by Moopai

I don't mean to offend anyone here but honestly I don't understand the buzz behind B&W. I had B&W in my 7 series for four years and when I compare to the HK in the M850, I don't notice the great effect between the two to pay the extra $5k. I agree with the member's comment about B&O being a better system than B&W.

As I mentioned in previous post, the only thing I miss with the B&W is lights in the speakers! It created a really nice look at night when driving. The M850 look dark without the B&W speakers...

This is the sentiment I've heard as well. I currently own a F15 X5 50i with B&O. It is outstanding! I really don't know why BMW switched their high-end systems?

[Thewhatchow]

Hi there! May I know how much was your total cost to retrofit the B&W system and what are the exact part numbers you've ordered? I'm quite keen on doing this retrofit on my 8 series too.

Originally Posted by jeezz

So since no one had a real answer to the original question, I am again bringing this thread back to life.


I did this full conversion from HK to BW, so yes it is possible.

I gathered all the parts over month from salvage cars etc.:

-7x B&W mid range speaker
-7x B&W tweeter
-2x B&W subwoofer
-1x B&W booster
-2x Front door side panel
-2x Back side panel
-1x Center console speaker cover

Speakers can be exchanged one by one, but the problem is, the H&K System uses crossover frequencys. So the tweeter is connected to the midrange speaker.

For B&W this is not how it works, it has seperate wiring from the booster in the trunk to every tweeter!

So I created a new wiring harness, and while doing so also added additional wires for the B&W lighting. Like already noted in this thread, a lot of interior has to come of for this. But that is not really a problem, you can take them all off in like 20-30 minutes.

Some maybe already wondered, why did he bought door panels.. they are cheaper then buying the B&W speaker covers from BMW and it's hard to find them as used part. So I bought some door panels that did not even match my interior and were in bad condition but I just transfered the speaker covers to my door panels. It fits 1:1

So after installing all the wires the tweeters get connected to the RAM! and the mid range + subwoofers to the B&W booster. You can keep the H&K RAM, only the booster needs to be replaced.

Also B&W booster needs new power harness 10mm² from battery with a 50A fuse.

After everything is done the RAM needs flashing, because B&W has other software, it will not work without flashing.. After that you also have to code it.

Sure it's A LOT of work and it took me some days, but I see this as a hobby and do it for fun.

[jeezz]

Originally Posted by Thewhatchow

Hi there! May I know how much was your total cost to retrofit the B&W system and what are the exact part numbers you've ordered? I'm quite keen on doing this retrofit on my 8 series too.

Hi, I think it was around 2500$ for all the parts, but I was able to sell my old HK System and some of left over donor parts I bought, for example rest of the door panels.. so in the end I paid around 1500$ for the B&W.

I don't have an exact list of the part numbers, but you can gather them here:

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/select

Often I did not search specific part numbers, but just searched parts for the model, because often parts have multiple part numbers over time. For example the speakers, speaker covers, booster are exchangeable for all the models 8 series F91, F92, F93, G14, G15, G16. You only have to check for the rear side. It depends if you have coupe or grand coupe.. there are differences.

[Westy]

I realise I’m joining this discussion a bit late in the day but if it’s of interest - I looked at the same thing and went aftermarket.

The crucial change is amplification and better DSP but you have to leave the existing system in place so that you can extract the feeds at the right point and leave the iDrive components of the system intact - otherwise you end up with all sorts of stuff that won’t work any more (parking sensors, warnings, voice control, the list is a long one)!

I changed door drivers and added 2 x 12” subs behind the back seats. DSP took lots of the headachy mid bass out of the underwear subs and re-EQed the system for a much better result. Made a much better job of limiting the system so it couldn’t be blown up, corrected delays and gain structure between drivers to give better imaging and then sent it all to better amplification.

It’s one of the best things I’ve ever heard. Total costs came to about £4500 and you need to know what you’re doing with audio (but on a personal level that’s my trade so not a problem).

Happy to give advice if anyone’s interested. (Or even a listen - although I’m in the Uk).

[bloozemanAZ]

Originally Posted by Westy

I realise I’m joining this discussion a bit late in the day but if it’s of interest - I looked at the same thing and went aftermarket.

The crucial change is amplification and better DSP but you have to leave the existing system in place so that you can extract the feeds at the right point and leave the iDrive components of the system intact - otherwise you end up with all sorts of stuff that won’t work any more (parking sensors, warnings, voice control, the list is a long one)!

I changed door drivers and added 2 x 12” subs behind the back seats. DSP took lots of the headachy mid bass out of the underwear subs and re-EQed the system for a much better result. Made a much better job of limiting the system so it couldn’t be blown up, corrected delays and gain structure between drivers to give better imaging and then sent it all to better amplification.

It’s one of the best things I’ve ever heard. Total costs came to about £4500 and you need to know what you’re doing with audio (but on a personal level that’s my trade so not a problem).

Happy to give advice if anyone’s interested. (Or even a listen - although I’m in the Uk).

The interesting thing as a similar topic on the G05/G06 forum is with iD8/iD8.5 those that tried anything other than the subs threw DAP errors. Apparently iD8/iD8.5 pays attention to the ohm draw for at least the dash center channel along with the driver and passenger doors. Change it and it throws the errors as it is the speakers that DAP uses to do the "gongs" when hands aren't on the steering wheel, etc.

[Westy]

Originally Posted by bloozemanAZ

The interesting thing as a similar topic on the G05/G06 forum is with iD8/iD8.5 those that tried anything other than the subs threw DAP errors. Apparently iD8/iD8.5 pays attention to the ohm draw for at least the dash center channel along with the driver and passenger doors. Change it and it throws the errors as it is the speakers that DAP uses to do the "gongs" when hands aren't on the steering wheel, etc.

That’s exactly the problem. It’s too integrated to be to throw any of it away.

I forgot to mention that you absolutely definitely need to code out the active sound design, easily done (I did mine with BimmerCode) but if you don’t do it you’ll regret it for life - the droning and the noise of amplifying it is just horrendous 😆

[Beemer5to3]

Is coding out ASD just available on the basic version of BimmerCode or have you got to go into the advanced settings to do it? Also heard it can be done on BimmerLink? I’ve got both, I just can’t find my OBD adapter!

[Westy]

Originally Posted by Beemer5to3

Is coding out ASD just available on the basic version of BimmerCode or have you got to go into the advanced settings to do it? Also heard it can be done on BimmerLink? I’ve got both, I just can’t find my OBD adapter!

It’s on the basic version - dead easy. It was the very first thing I bought BimmerCode for and I couldn’t get rid of it quick enough.

SUCH an idiotic idea putting fake sounds through the hifi, whoever thought of it needs a slap, whoever agreed with them also needs a slap and whoever signed it off in development quite frankly ought to be sacked and never allowed near a car again!!

[bloozemanAZ]

Originally Posted by Westy

It’s on the basic version - dead easy. It was the very first thing I bought BimmerCode for and I couldn’t get rid of it quick enough.

SUCH an idiotic idea putting fake sounds through the hifi, whoever thought of it needs a slap, whoever agreed with them also needs a slap and whoever signed it off in development quite frankly ought to be sacked and never allowed near a car again!!

Here's another kicker regarding iD8. Supposedly BMW has locked it with a 03/2023 release that won't even allow Bimmercode anymore for most of what it could do prior. For ASD at least there still is the pull the fuse method and that's now the go-to for the M60i.

[overklok]

jeezz,

I have a question for you. I have a set of full leather door panels that have the HK setup. I have the BW setup already in my car. How difficult will it be to switch out the door panels and swap BW to the HK door panels?

Thanks!

[jeezz]

Originally Posted by overklok

jeezz,

I have a question for you. I have a set of full leather door panels that have the HK setup. I have the BW setup already in my car. How difficult will it be to switch out the door panels and swap BW to the HK door panels?

Thanks!

So first you will have to remove the installed panels, will take around 10 minutes.. Then you have to put some of that "insulation?" stuff to the side around the speaker cover area, so you can see the mounting points.

After that you have to carefully drill all the plastic welded mounting points of the speaker covers. For the front tweeter one it's a bit worse, you will need a dremel for that and grind the weld of, since it's not round mounting, it's like multiple welded "lines". To access one or two mounting points you also have to cut off a little plastic peace to reach it.

After all done you can swap the covers and use BMW "repair screws" to make them hold back in place. For the tweeter cover you will have to weld it back with some plastic or just use like hot glue gun.

So it's a bit of work.

[overklok]

Thanks for the advise!!

[overklok]

jeezz,

Could you please point out where I need to get at the plastic welds, in these images I posted?

Thanks

[jeezz]

Check this mate

[bloozemanAZ]

Originally Posted by Moopai

I don't mean to offend anyone here but honestly I don't understand the buzz behind B&W. I had B&W in my 7 series for four years and when I compare to the HK in the M850, I don't notice the great effect between the two to pay the extra $5k. I agree with the member's comment about B&O being a better system than B&W.

Granted I never have experienced the B&O in a BMW (could have optioned it for the wife's 2017 X5 but no examples on the lot to test so just went with the HK as a no brainer in testing it vs stock).

That said I've head several B&O components in my home audio over the past 2 decades. One being their 9000 CD changer (back when CDs were a thing) because it was a pure piece of art from a design standpoint. From a more sound perspective that included several versions of their Redline speaker series. Put them into comparison of B&W 801s, Kef Reference, Martin Logan, etc. in my audio system over 15+ years and B&O fell flat on their face and didn't even last 6 months.

I'll stand by the B&W system in an 8-series as it is flat out amazing and built off the 801/Nautilus speakers. Tell me it has no bass and I just laugh. More importantly I can push it to nose bleeding volumes and it is pure unadulterated sound clear of any distortion, etc.

Originally Posted by Moopai

As I mentioned in previous post, the only thing I miss with the B&W is lights in the speakers! It created a really nice look at night when driving. The M850 look dark without the B&W speakers...

As I always state even if not an audiophile the aesthetics of the B&W system is worth the price of entry especially if leasing.

[overklok]

Jeezz, I have added a picture, can you take a look?

Thanks!!!

[jeezz]

Originally Posted by overklok

Jeezz, I have added a picture, can you take a look?

Thanks!!!

I already marked the spots in my previous post or what do you mean?