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View Poll Results: Which lens(es) should I bring for an indoor event?
24-105mm f/4L 2 33.33%
16-35mm f/2.8L 1 16.67%
35mm f/1.4L 3 50.00%
50mm f/1.8 0 0%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 6. You may not vote on this poll

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      12-30-2016, 08:07 PM   #1
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Indoor photography with a flash, your go-to?

I've shot one wedding as a favor to a friend before and I had some GREAT results with the 24-70mm f/2.8 that I rented. Paired with my Canon 6D, and 580ex II Speedlite and shooting f/2.8 at 1/50 I was able to capture all the action sharply with no motion blur and still have the backgrounds pop. Now I have a high profile formal birthday party that I agreed to do. The problem is I don't want to rent another 24-70mm f/2.8. But I don't want to buy one either, since I don't have a real use for it outside of these parties. Keeping in mind that I want the option to have a big aperture so that the flash doesn't completely kill the background, which of these lenses that I already own should I bring?

Pros/cons of each:

24-105mm f/4L:
Pros: Perfect focal range
Cons: f/4 will make my backgrounds darker than I like since the flash will be doing more heavy lifting, and the venue is a very dark place.

16-35mm f/2.8L
Pros: f/2.8 is perfect for this lighting without having an overly shallow DOF.
Cons: The lens is useless for people (my main subject) at wider than 24mm. So only 24-35mm are useful and not as versatile as the 24-105.

35mm f/1.4L
Pros: Low light performance will be amazing
Cons: A nice all around focal length, but not too flexible

50mm f/1.8
Pros: Not too narrow on a full frame
Cons: Still might be too tight in some situations. The 35mm will outperform in every way, but I thought I would throw this in as an option.
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Last edited by jmg; 12-30-2016 at 08:17 PM..
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      12-31-2016, 09:48 AM   #2
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24-105 and lift the shadows in PS (if you need to).
Simple.
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      12-31-2016, 10:58 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allachie9 View Post
24-105 and lift the shadows in PS (if you need to).
Simple.
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      01-02-2017, 04:58 PM   #4
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I do not specialize in weddings but did a few when I was starting out. I would suggest renting the 24-70/2.8 and a 50L, expose at 400-600, get a Soften for flash and rent a couple 5D3 or 4. The zoom will give you flexibility, the 50L is beautiful at close range plus the bokeh at F2 or so, you can underexpose by two stops and bring back the shadows and tweak in CaptureOne and the 5D is FF and will produce better files than your 6D. I couldn't imagine using the 24-105 with such a dark viewfinder, the speed of the lens effects the ability to focus in dark conditions. I would have no problem dragging the shutter, the flash will freeze the subject and help isolate them from the background. Why not do it right? Especially if you plan on doing similar jobs in the future, you want to deliver beautiful images and need them for self promotion.
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      01-02-2017, 05:39 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tcphoto View Post
I do not specialize in weddings but did a few when I was starting out. I would suggest renting the 24-70/2.8 and a 50L, expose at 400-600, get a Soften for flash and rent a couple 5D3 or 4. The zoom will give you flexibility, the 50L is beautiful at close range plus the bokeh at F2 or so, you can underexpose by two stops and bring back the shadows and tweak in CaptureOne and the 5D is FF and will produce better files than your 6D. I couldn't imagine using the 24-105 with such a dark viewfinder, the speed of the lens effects the ability to focus in dark conditions. I would have no problem dragging the shutter, the flash will freeze the subject and help isolate them from the background. Why not do it right? Especially if you plan on doing similar jobs in the future, you want to deliver beautiful images and need them for self promotion.

I don't do this for the money, it's purely as a hobby and to document a good friend's milestone birthday. I plan on getting a 5D, but not until summer and I really would never need a 24-70mm for what I do. I have primes for low light. Hmm... do you think the 50 will be too tight even on my FF 6D? Maybe I should stick to the 35mm f/1.4 and zoom with my feet.
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      01-02-2017, 06:56 PM   #6
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I was seduced by zooms when I started out and decided I liked the fast L primes better with the brightest viewfinder possible. I think the best way to shoot people is to get close and capture emotions, so I'd shoot nearly wide open and try to tell a story with pictures. I haven't used a 6D and would find a clean used 5DIII for a fraction of new. I currently shoot with 1DsIII's and will either upgrade to the 1Dx or 5Ds sometime this year. Renting is not a bad thing to do if you can't afford to purchase, I'd simply never try to shoot anything serious with the 24-105. Perhaps you would check out the Fred Miranda or other photo forum for more information.
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      01-02-2017, 06:59 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tcphoto View Post
I was seduced by zooms when I started out and decided I liked the fast L primes better with the brightest viewfinder possible. I think the best way to shoot people is to get close and capture emotions, so I'd shoot nearly wide open and try to tell a story with pictures. I haven't used a 6D and would find a clean used 5DIII for a fraction of new. I currently shoot with 1DsIII's and will either upgrade to the 1Dx or 5Ds sometime this year. Renting is not a bad thing to do if you can't afford to purchase, I'd simply never try to shoot anything serious with the 24-105. Perhaps you would check out the Fred Miranda or other photo forum for more information.
Thanks, I'm more of a fast primes guy as well. Maybe I will take this opportunity to play with my 85mm f/1.8 as well. The 35 for wider shots and the 85 for portraits?
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      01-03-2017, 12:29 PM   #8
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F4 is really difficult to use indoors. You'd be using flash all of the time, adjusting FEC, bouncing, and having to do more in post IMO.

I would just take the 35L, but you'd have to be able to get into peoples' faces to get tight shots, which shouldnt be a problem if you are the official photog. Large group shots would be a little tough too.

To get more background/ambient, lower the shutter speed and open up that prime. Not familiar with the 6D other than I know its full frame, but you should also be separating focus and metering buttons if possible. That + lowering your FEC a bit is a good combo with the 35L.
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      01-03-2017, 12:48 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apexlocator View Post
F4 is really difficult to use indoors. You'd be using flash all of the time, adjusting FEC, bouncing, and having to do more in post IMO.

I would just take the 35L, but you'd have to be able to get into peoples' faces to get tight shots, which shouldnt be a problem if you are the official photog. Large group shots would be a little tough too.

To get more background/ambient, lower the shutter speed and open up that prime. Not familiar with the 6D other than I know its full frame, but you should also be separating focus and metering buttons if possible. That + lowering your FEC a bit is a good combo with the 35L.

What's FEC stand for exactly? I can separate and lock in both focus and metering on the 6D very easily. Are you saying focus on the faces, while metering for the background? Would that blow out the faces?
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      01-03-2017, 01:00 PM   #10
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FEC = flash exposure compensation. basically dialing down the flash power.

You would meter for the background and focus the face, use flash with lower FEC. So you are properly exposing background, underexposing face and using flash to light the face. You'd have to play with the FEC to not blow out the faces.
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      01-03-2017, 01:33 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apexlocator View Post
F4 is really difficult to use indoors. You'd be using flash all of the time, adjusting FEC, bouncing, and having to do more in post IMO.

I would just take the 35L, but you'd have to be able to get into peoples' faces to get tight shots, which shouldnt be a problem if you are the official photog. Large group shots would be a little tough too.

To get more background/ambient, lower the shutter speed and open up that prime. Not familiar with the 6D other than I know its full frame, but you should also be separating focus and metering buttons if possible. That + lowering your FEC a bit is a good combo with the 35L.
His Canon 6D produces and excellent file at ISO 6400; therefore, shooting indoors is not "difficult" at all. At least, it'd be no more effort than shooting the faster lenses at lower ISOs.

If he shoots primes as an "official photog" he's going to need a second body. You lose too much time switching prime lenses. Relying on a 35mm alone is like tying a hand behind your back. On a full-frame body, it's not a flattering focal length for up close shots and it's not wide enough for group shots in many venues.

These days, given the high-ISO performance of the current generation of bodies, the main reason to shoot primes is for bokeh for portraits.

Personally, I'd go with two full-frame bodies, with the 24-105mm on one and a 70-200mm on the other, with flash ready to go, as needed. (Parts of some rooms are too dark for available light shooting, no matter how fast your lens or how high your ISO. Dance floors tend to be relatively dark and you don't want to worry about too-slow shutter speed not stopping the action.
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      01-03-2017, 01:56 PM   #12
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Agree 100% on the primes and need for 2nd body.

If OP doesnt want to rent a 24-70, then maybe rent a 2nd body since its a "high profile" birthday. Then OP can bring 16-35 and 24-105 zooms, and flashes.
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      01-03-2017, 02:19 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apexlocator View Post
Agree 100% on the primes and need for 2nd body.

If OP doesnt want to rent a 24-70, then maybe rent a 2nd body since its a "high profile" birthday. Then OP can bring 16-35 and 24-105 zooms, and flashes.
I'm also there to enjoy the party since it's a good friend of mine's, so I'd prefer to only carry one body. Hmmm.. maybe it's just time to get that 24-70mm.

CONVINCE ME guys, will I be using this $1700 lens for more than indoor night parties which I won't be attending that often with my DSLR? Is it a good replacement for my 24-105? I'd want to sell my 24-105 to mitigate costs, but that focal range is super useful when chasing the kids around.
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      01-03-2017, 03:39 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmg View Post
I'm also there to enjoy the party since it's a good friend of mine's, so I'd prefer to only carry one body. Hmmm.. maybe it's just time to get that 24-70mm.

CONVINCE ME guys, will I be using this $1700 lens for more than indoor night parties which I won't be attending that often with my DSLR? Is it a good replacement for my 24-105? I'd want to sell my 24-105 to mitigate costs, but that focal range is super useful when chasing the kids around.
If you put it that way, then I say nay.
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      01-03-2017, 04:21 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apexlocator View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmg View Post
I'm also there to enjoy the party since it's a good friend of mine's, so I'd prefer to only carry one body. Hmmm.. maybe it's just time to get that 24-70mm.

CONVINCE ME guys, will I be using this $1700 lens for more than indoor night parties which I won't be attending that often with my DSLR? Is it a good replacement for my 24-105? I'd want to sell my 24-105 to mitigate costs, but that focal range is super useful when chasing the kids around.
If you put it that way, then I say nay.
Yeah, I'd rather save that money for a 70-200mm.
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      01-08-2017, 03:34 PM   #16
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Images from the shoot?
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      01-08-2017, 04:14 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tcphoto View Post
Images from the shoot?
Still processing, but I don't think the host would like these photos to get out.

But I ended up bringing the 35mm f/1.4 and the 85mm f/1.8. I never got around to using the 85mm however since the 35mm worked so well. I bounced between f/2.8 and f/4 since there were a lot of group shots and I needed that wider DOF. I took some shots without flash at f/1.4 that turned out pretty good.

Bounced the flash off walls, and rarely the ceiling.
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