[Da_BatMann_]

Kind of a weird and random issue I'm experiencing. Past few weeks I've been experiencing an issue where my car goes into limp mode (RPM Locks at ~4) and I'm not sure why.

Typically happens shortly after starting the car, sometimes when I remote start as well. Today I noticed, while sitting in the car in a parking lot shortly after starting it, the car sounded like it was idling kind of high but the meters didnt reflect. After a couple of seconds of that high hidle sound i see the redline on my speedo go to 3½/4 RPM. Car still gets up to speed, and it doesn't feel any different.

I tried turning off my racechip and that didn't change anything. I have also been having HVAC issues with fan blowing power lately but I doubt that's related. It's been very hot in Miami lately

Restarting the car typically changes it back to normal, I haven't gotten a CEL yet. Any ideas? Seems like it only happens when the car idles for awhile, not while driving.

No recent mods but I have Eventuri intake and inlets and secondary cats, but these have been on working fine for months.

Edit: so I sat in parking lot, started it, it's prob 90° today and car is fine. After a minute or two I hear it start idle high, kind of like how it sounds when your fan is working really hard, then the limp mode turns on. Rinse repeat same thing happens 2 more times. So I restart again, then drive off and I've been driving for 20 minute now and limp hasn't activated.

Edit 2 - drove the car an hour home and it did not go into limp mode, so the issue seems to happen only during idle.

[Kponti]

Originally Posted by Da_BatMann_

Kind of a weird and random issue I'm experiencing. Past few weeks I've been experiencing an issue where my car goes into limp mode (RPM Locks at ~4) and I'm not sure why.

Typically happens shortly after starting the car, sometimes when I remote start as well. Today I noticed, while sitting in the car in a parking lot shortly after starting it, the car sounded like it was idling kind of high but the meters didnt reflect. After a couple of seconds of that high hidle sound i see the redline on my speedo go to 3½/4 RPM. Car still gets up to speed, and it doesn't feel any different.

I tried turning off my racechip and that didn't change anything. I have also been having HVAC issues with fan blowing power lately but I doubt that's related. It's been very hot in Miami lately

Restarting the car typically changes it back to normal, I haven't gotten a CEL yet. Any ideas? Seems like it only happens when the car idles for awhile, not while driving.

No recent mods but I have Eventuri intake and inlets and secondary cats, but these have been on working fine for months.

Edit: so I sat in parking lot, started it, it's prob 90° today and car is fine. After a minute or two I hear it start idle high, kind of like how it sounds when your fan is working really hard, then the limp mode turns on. Rinse repeat same thing happens 2 more times. So I restart again, then drive off and I've been driving for 20 minute now and limp hasn't activated.

Edit 2 - drove the car an hour home and it did not go into limp mode, so the issue seems to happen only during idle.

Check your inlet connections to the turbos

[Da_BatMann_]

Originally Posted by Kponti

Check your inlet connections to the turbos

I checked and everything looks fitted pretty well, issue is becoming more frequent now; mainly if not always on cold start.

[r33_RGSport]

Da_BatMann_ Try change the turbo inlet back to stock.

[Da_BatMann_]

Originally Posted by r33_RGSport

Da_BatMann_ Try change the turbo inlet back to stock.

I will try that.

I got a check engine light now, these are the codes:

[P0022] Camshaft Position - Timing over retarded (Bank 2)
[P136a] I'm not sure what this one is

Any ideas? Could the turbo inlets be causing this?

I also got an error that 'front side marker malfunction' and my AC kinda stinks too. Not sure if these are related, though I doubt it.

[r33_RGSport]

Originally Posted by Da_BatMann_

I will try that.

I got a check engine light now, these are the codes:

[P0022] Camshaft Position - Timing over retarded (Bank 2)
[P136a] I'm not sure what this one is

Any ideas? Could the turbo inlets be causing this?

I also got an error that 'front side marker malfunction' and my AC kinda stinks too. Not sure if these are related, though I doubt it.

Hmm, you got a lot of errors.
Those doesn’t seem to be related to the turbo inlet.
Any mods to the light?
Pictures on RaceChip connections?

[Da_BatMann_]

[QUOTE=r33_RGSport;30210114]Hmm, you got a lot of errors.
Those doesn’t seem to be related to the turbo inlet.
Any mods to the light?
Pictures on RaceChip connections?[/QUOTE

Light is still OEM. I will add racechip photos tomorrow, though it's been installed since October.

[Da_BatMann_]

When removing my inlet turbos, I noticed the seals and gaskets were a bit greasy on the turbo connection and breather hose. Wondering if maybe my vanos solenoid got dirty. I've seen a few other users mention that as a possibility.

[VARLIK]

Not good !!!

Incorrect timing setting.
Continuous oil flow into the VCT (Variable Cam Time) piston chamber.
Low or dirty engine oil
Faulty variable valve timing (VVT)
Oil control valve (OCV) defective
The variable valve timing (VVT) wiring harness is open or shorted
The oil control valve (OCV) harness circuit is open or shorted
ECM defective

[Da_BatMann_]

Originally Posted by VARLIK

Not good !!!

Incorrect timing setting.
Continuous oil flow into the VCT (Variable Cam Time) piston chamber.
Low or dirty engine oil
Faulty variable valve timing (VVT)
Oil control valve (OCV) defective
The variable valve timing (VVT) wiring harness is open or shorted
The oil control valve (OCV) harness circuit is open or shorted
ECM defective

I go to a well known performance shop in my area, last time I brought it to them I had them change the oil, they said that the oil BMW recommends to uses is part of the reason these cars are prone to rod damage so they used a different oil(unsure which) that was about 3k miles ago... Starting to think that could be a culprit

[Tenac]

Originally Posted by Da_BatMann_

I go to a well known performance shop in my area, last time I brought it to them I had them change the oil, they said that the oil BMW recommends to uses is part of the reason these cars are prone to rod damage so they used a different oil(unsure which) that was about 3k miles ago... Starting to think that could be a culprit

That is interesting about the rod damage, I've heard about lower end rebuilds around the 1000hp mark but nothing in regards to anything being common damage under that. Do you mind PM'ing me a number or name to the shop I need to give them a ring for details.

[Da_BatMann_]

Been working on getting back to stock so I can take it in to get checked out. I've removed the Eventuri turbo inlets, and the racechip and the issue has become much less severe. I still cold start with a limp/limit at ~6500RPM now as opposed to 4000 before. But now this only lasts a minute or two until the car is warmed up then it goes back to normal rpm (dont recall if this always happened).

Also the CEL is gone and has not come back. Still going to take it back to the dealer to get it checked, maybe a faulty sensor or something.

Uploaded a pic of most recent rpm at cold start and before I took the racechip And inlets out for reference

[Da_BatMann_]

I'm starting to wonder if maybe the AC is causing my issues. Started up today, just fine no limp mode. Then I parked and let the card idle about 5 minutes and set the AC on max -- couple seconds after I get RPM Locked at ~3500.

Doesn't seem like a coincidence

[Da_BatMann_]

This issue is still happening to me, dealer hasn't been able to figure out what's happening as nothing shows up in their scan. No fault codes show or anything so don't know where to start. Kind of annoying.

But, like clockwork, every cold start my car limits the revs to 5500rpm for about 5 minutes before it goes back to normal. Dealer says maybe it's normal, I know that it's not.

[Da_BatMann_]

This will probably be my final update on this issue. I took the car back to BMW after they said this was normal (which I know it's not) and since my car has no faults or codes they don't know where to start, they have no idea. They reached out to BMW corporate and corporate wrote me a statement saying this is normal operation and the car is trying to protect itself while it warms up, I don't really accept this answer as why would this happen to just my car and not any of yours Anyways, if it ever becomes a serious problem I have paperwork now to make them accountable.

At this point the only mods on my car are ER secondary Downpipes.

My ask: please watch this video, watch the Rev limit, skip through it to see what I'm talking about and let me know if this happens or has ever happened to any of your m8s

https://quickshare.samsungcloud.com/ra8KWf68N1vI

[Da_BatMann_]

Like I mentioned in my previous posts, my car has been stock (except for Downpipes) for the past few months and haven't had any real issues.

Last weekend, I reinstalled my eventuri inlets, intake and my racechio and after 2 weeks it seems to be happening again. I got a check engine last night while sitting in a parking lot.

I think the RaceChip is causing my problems. This morning when I started my car (RaceChip off) all was good and normal. I drove for about 45minutes and then turned the RaceChip on, 5 minutes later my RPM lock drops too 4000. I turned the RaceChip off, restarted the car and drove another 30 minutes and sitting parked now making this post - no issues, no RPM lock.

Like I said, I will keep testing and now that I have a CEL maybe I will take it to the dealership again. It's unfortunate because I really like the difference the RaceChip makes on our cars but it's looking like my car and the RaceChip are not compatible.

[Kponti]

Originally Posted by Da_BatMann_

Like I mentioned in my previous posts, my car has been stock (except for Downpipes) for the past few months and haven't had any real issues.

Last weekend, I reinstalled my eventuri inlets, intake and my racechio and after 2 weeks it seems to be happening again. I got a check engine last night while sitting in a parking lot.

I think the RaceChip is causing my problems. This morning when I started my car (RaceChip off) all was good and normal. I drove for about 45minutes and then turned the RaceChip on, 5 minutes later my RPM lock drops too 4000. I turned the RaceChip off, restarted the car and drove another 30 minutes and sitting parked now making this post - no issues, no RPM lock.

Like I said, I will keep testing and now that I have a CEL maybe I will take it to the dealership again. It's unfortunate because I really like the difference the RaceChip makes on our cars but it's looking like my car and the RaceChip are not compatible.

Racechip like any other part on a car (or any machine) is subject to defects. I bet a switch to another unit can cure all your Racechip woes since this car in particular has not been known to have issues playing nice with the Racehip.

As an example, I am on my 3rd OBD connector to try to tune my trans with xHP. None of the first two f*****s worked. But I know many folks with this done to their trans successfully so I have ordered a replacement xHP unit and an MHD unit (just in case) to try next

[Da_BatMann_]

Originally Posted by Kponti

Racechip like any other part on a car (or any machine) is subject to defects. I bet a switch to another unit can cure all your Racechip woes since this car in particular has not been known to have issues playing nice with the Racehip.

As an example, I am on my 3rd OBD connector to try to tune my trans with xHP. None of the first two f*****s worked. But I know many folks with this done to their trans successfully so I have ordered a replacement xHP unit and an MHD unit (just in case) to try next

It could be defective, certainly possible. Im going try and get a replacement while I continue testing this one. But at this point, all signs are leading to this being the culprit.

[Da_BatMann_]

RaceChip has been off since this morning. CEL just went away, not a coincidence.

[ctelimad]

If u have downpipes racechip can sometimes give cel
Your best bet is to try Jb4
It is a better tune when u have other mods like downpipes given it connects to obd and can adjust accordingly

[Da_BatMann_]

Originally Posted by ctelimad

If u have downpipes racechip can sometimes give cel
Your best bet is to try Jb4
It is a better tune when u have other mods like downpipes given it connects to obd and can adjust accordingly

I may try out the jb4 bu most likely will just go the route of a real tune

[Kponti]

Originally Posted by ctelimad

If u have downpipes racechip can sometimes give cel
Your best bet is to try Jb4
It is a better tune when u have other mods like downpipes given it connects to obd and can adjust accordingly

That's only if you have catless primary downpipes. Neither of the two piggybacks can help with with cels if you have a catless primary downpipe.
JB4 will turn it off forcefully with every restart but it's like disconnecting your battery with every restart